FE518 Loose Leash Walkers Anonymous

METHODS WE'LL EXPLORE: As we all know there are many ways to teach the skill of Loose Leash Walking - thank goodness there is as not one single method fits all dogs. With that in mind, we'll take a look at the various ways we can encourage and convey a loose leash to our dogs while still allowing freedom to sniff or even roam a little further when appropriate. We'll cover and incorporate basic skills, that along with these different methods will assist you in keeping it loose in the wide-open spaces and able to manage in the tighter city scene.

1. Stop n Go
2. Catch-up
3. Heeling Games
4. Circle Around
5. Connect The Dots
6. 1, 2, 3, COOKIE
7. 300 Steps
8. Connected Check-Ins

SKILLS:
The exact order is subject to change

1. Equipment
2. Criteria: Distance, Duration, Distractions & Paycheques
3. LLW, Heeling & FreeWalks Definitions
4. Before LLW Starts
5. Transitions To Create Calm
6. Standing Still - But This Is Supposed To Be LLW
7. Leash As A Guide - Learning to Release Leash Pressure
8. Who Me? Playing the Name Game
9. The Magical Wand - The Mysteries of the Hand Target
10. Home Grown Skills - Creating the RZone
11. Turns & Twirls & Directional Dances
12. Leave It, Drop It & Trade It - Dropping Disgusting Stuff
13. Greetings Without Greetings
14. Ready Set Re-Set: 3 Steps or More Reset Jig
15. Connect the Dots: Reminding The Human To Pay Out
16. Go Check It Out - Taking A Sniff Break - The Dog Not You!
17. Inserting Distractions: Not Your Circus - Temptation Alley
18. LLW Skills - Bit 'n Pieces Put Together
19. Making Your LLW An Adventure - Ups/Downs - Adding Variety & Fun to your walks
20. Managing A Polite Passing

Lectures 1.3 Loose Leash Walking Skills: The 3 Step Jig (Re-set skill)

We've already started some of the LLW foundation behaviours with the HAND TARGET (having our dogs follow our hand) and introduced the concept to our dogs that if they followed us and ended up in the reinforcement zone (at heel) they would get paid. Now we're going to take the HAND Target and use it as a calm non-jumping way to both help our dogs stay by our side and as a means to reset our dogs should they become too distracted and decide they're going to just charge ahead of us.

We going to first use our hand target to draw our dogs back towards us while taking 3 backward steps. Then have them turn and follow our hand as we move 3 steps forward. Moving backward gives our dogs a different picture than if we were to just turn around and start all over again. Backing up helps to re-orient and re-focus them to us and to re-direct to correct position without physical force. In this lesson, we won't be adding any real LLW forward movement. We need to develop your 3 step reset skills first before we add the difficulty of going full forward. Generally, a 3 step reset works well for most dogs however some dogs may initially need you to take more than 3 steps to reset. If this is the case with your dog, then, by all means, use more steps but then quickly get down to just 3 steps.

We will be adding the leash into the picture. For the purpose of this lesson, I will assume you are walking your dog on your left but by all means walk your dog on whichever side is comfortable for you. You will also be working in as non-distracting an environment as possible to start. Note we do not have a verbal cue just yet. Later when we add forward movement, we can take advantage of our environments such as walls or hallways to help keep our dogs in position.

Tools: Leash, clicker & treats

Assuming dog on your left: You will be holding the leash, clicker and even the treats all in your right hand. If you have difficulty holding everything, you can opt to use a verbal marker and/or put treats in a treat pouch at the center of your body. Whichever way you choose, remember that both of your hands will always remain at and return to home base (your belly button) when they're not in use either as a target hand or a food reward hand. You will hold your hands at Home Base unless using as a hand target and you will feed the treat at the RZ.

It looks like this:

Here is one example of holding the leash. Place handle over wrist then loop leash over fingers - treats are in your palm - Close your hand. If this method of holding your leash doesn't appeal to you try looping the end of the leash loop over your thumb and then take up the slack by looping the leash again over your thumb and closing your grip.

Hands Held at HOME BASE Treats delivered at REWARD Point

Part 1 - Starting 3 Steps Backwards

1. With the dog on a leash standing in front and facing you, begin to click and treat 5-10 times to help prompt them to turn their attention to you.

2. Now place a treat in your left palm and cover it with your thumb. Present this treat hand (hand target) to your dog's nose, palm flat and thumb over treat palm facing toward the dog.

3. As you take 3 steps backward lure your dog in a straight line well past your left leg.

4. Click and treat in position (past your left leg) on the 3rd step.

5. Either turn and face your dog for the next rep or lure your dog around to your front and REPEAT Steps 1-4 at least 5X or more before moving to Part 2 - we want you to be able to do this without thinking about it.

Part 2 - Adding the 3 Steps Forward

1. Now, instead of clicking on the 3rd backward step, you're now going to TURN your wrist so that your thumb is against your leg (palm to dog's muzzle) behind you. Your dog should naturally follow this movement if you keep your hand on his nose like a magnet and draw him far enough past your left leg so he can easily turn.

2. Take 3 steps forward and click and treat on the 3rd step at RZone.

3. REWARD ZONE: Make sure to deliver the treat at your left leg regardless of where your dog is. It is his job to be or get into position. As a reminder to yourself, place your thumb up against the seam of your left leg. This will ensure your reward hand is always in the correct spot.

4. REPEAT the sequence of 3 steps backward/forwards for 5 or more reps. If you can do this without thinking about it and your dog is coming into heel position at the RZone and not out of position (is parallel to you) then move to Part 3

Part 3 - Adding 1 Step Forward

Here's where we start to add 1 step forward BEFORE we do the 3 Step Backwards/Forwards Jig. Remember ONLY a 1 step forward please in the beginning.

1. With the dog parallel to you on your left side, present Hand Target w/lure (thumb facing the dog's nose) take a 1 step forward

2. Turn your wrist, turn the dog so they're now facing you and take 3 steps backward

3. Turn wrist and take 3 steps forward

4. Click and Treat at REWARD ZONE

5. Repeat the sequence 1 thru 4, 5 more times

6. Gradually increase the number of steps you go forward to a max of 3 before doing the 3 Steps Backward/Forward Jig.

Keep in mind this is not about continuing forward for any great length just yet, this is about teaching our dogs a distraction/pulling reset cue.

Adding The reset CUE

Only when you've got a smooth transition of going forward, 3 steps backward - 3 steps forward again will you add the cue. You will add your dog's name with the cue as an added attention getter in the beginning stages. My cue for resetting my dogs if they decide to charge ahead is "The Dog's Name, This Way" and my hand target is simultaneously presented for them to follow as I immediately start the 3 step reset.

1. Start with hands at home base.

2. Take 1-3 steps forward, say dog's name and your cue "this way", extend target hand as the dog turns towards you.

3. Take 3 steps backward, turn wrist and take 3 steps forward

4. Click and treat at your RZ (seam of your pants)

5. Repeat the sequence of steps 1-4, 5 X or more.

6. Any time your dog charges ahead call their name and give your "this way" reset cue to bring them back into position.

Here we added the reset cue of "This Way" and the 1 step forward movement. Add your dog's name before the reset cue as an added extra prompt.

TROUBLESHOOTING

If your dog charges ahead after each reset try pausing after doing the 3 back-3 forward reset, count to 2 and C/T 3+ times for your dog remaining with you and then step out again.

Try putting a treat to your dog's muzzle as you make your first step, release the treat and quickly do your next C/T. This buys you a little time to help keep the "energizer bunny" with you and not charging ahead.