Do you have a dog that chases the ball, yet won’t bring it back? Plays keep away with toys? Tugs but won’t let go? Bites you instead of the tug? Obsesses over toys, yet won’t listen to a single thing you say? Is your dog so high in drive for toys that they can’t think? Or do you just want to channel that prey drive right from the beginning and add the attitude your dog has for tugging or chasing toys to the obedience or agility ring?
Do you have a dog that chases the ball, yet won’t bring it back? Plays keep away with toys? Tugs but won’t let go? Bites you instead of the tug? Obsesses over toys, yet won’t listen to a single thing you say? Is your dog so high in drive for toys that they can’t think? Or do you just want to channel that prey drive right from the beginning and add the attitude your dog has for tugging or chasing toys to the obedience or agility ring?
Are you curious about toy marker cues and how they apply to toys and teaching behavior cues? I mean, why all the fuss?
If so, this class is for you! Join me as we explore how to play games that channel that prey drive. Playing with toys with OUR rules creates a dog that plays with us instead of against us! Adding specific marker cues for how we deliver the toy helps the dog to listen and keep their arousal/excitement down, yet explode into focused action when we want them to. We are specifically intending the toy play to be used as a reinforcement for sport behaviors, which makes this class a wonderful foundation for most sports.
This class is most appropriate for dogs that are attracted to toys but need fine tuning in how to play with them. We include ways to build drive for toys but generally, dogs with little or no interest in chasing and biting toys will have limited success in this class. The tug part of this class can be quite physical on the handler, so wear gloves and expect to gain some bicep muscles!
You need room to play, and a non slippery surface that is safe for both you and your dog to run and turn quickly on. Teaching chase is often an integral part of teaching a dog to bring toys back, and I often recommend starting with that game even if you only want tugging. Chasing toys that don't go very far, get caught up in furniture, bang into walls, etc.. often is not reinforcing for our dogs and gets in the way of them discovering the joy of snatching a toy out of mid air on the bounce after a long run after. Ideally you will also be able to teach in an area that also doesn't have competing motivators, like agility equipment, other animals, cars or dog beds, mats.
Please be realistic about progress during class! Even though it is 6 weeks long, in reality, many students take this class over and over, as it takes most dogs/handlers a year or two to attain good toy skills.
Here a video showing a little of what we work on:
Teaching Approach
This class can be overwhelming! I release the basic steps of the chase and the fetch game all in the beginning of the class, and then as the question comes up in a gold or silver thread, I release the discussion lectures one at a time. Subjects are presented in steps, and are meant to go in order. For instance, the chase game has X amount of steps and each step is a separate lecture. Written bullet points, along with short videos showing each bullet point is the main format. Feedback wise, I give short concise written instructions, aiming at changing one or two things in the session. I absolutely love giving instruction once a day instead of twice a week (shorter videos versus long videos) and the class subjects support that.
This class will have a Teacher's Assistant (TA) available in the Facebook study group to help the Bronze and Silver students! Directions for joining will be in the classroom after you register.
2 toy game:
Trade
chase
prompted return
marker cue
eye contact
offered return
offered drop
add behaviors
listen to your dog's feedback
Tug
joy in tugging
pulling
pushing
bringing tug back
physical hand signals
adding another toy
adding chase and drop
adding behaviors
listen to your dog's feedback
Toys, balls, and variety of tugs, treats. Depending on your dog's preferences, you may start with soft fuzzy type toys to build drive and then end up with really hard type toys to encourage dropping and letting go. Flirt poles and toys on ropes can also be great in the beginning stages.
2 toy chase Step 10: Listening to your dog
Listening to your dog: dropping, outing and returning with the toy-the "reset"
Also known as dog's "tell".
I'd like trainers to look at things a bit differently when we are teaching our dogs and see if they can develop a training "language" that considers the dog's opinion during the training session. In the toy game, when you have 2 toys, the piece I want you to look at is the "reset", that part of the behavior loop after the dog has collected the toy into their mouth, and is on their way back to you. What does that look like at it's ideal, and where in that behavior of returning does your dog deviate when you add too many or too hard of behavior skills.
To summarize:
Reset/loop: the piece of behavior from the time the dog strikes the toy on the chase to the time the dog drops the toy at the correct distance and orientates to the handler (eye contact for our purposes here). With food training, this is the piece of behavior from the time the dog swallows the food and orientates back to the handler. With toys, it is Unique and Harder because the dog has to give something up, where as with food, the dog has swallowed and there is nothing to have or return.
Ideal behavior (dog dependent, for instance Ones takes a couple chomps to drop the toy, where another dog might drop cleanly.)
straight return
stops at handler
drops toy at feet cleanly
looks at handler quickly
Where it starts to go wrong:
arcs on return
drops toy early
smashes into handler
circles around behind handler
chompity, chomp, chomp on the toy
Really far gone:
runs to far corner of arena
never drops toy
takes toy to ground and proceeds to tear it up
endless circling
etc....
Look and sound familiar? These are likely the same issues/behaviors that you trained through when you were teaching the game skills in the first place. Dogs may show only one of the examples, or many.
Basically: you give reinforcement (chases) until the reset is clean, whatever your baseline is. Then, you ask for a behavior, look at the rep immediately after and if it is clean, baseline, then ask for another behavior. If it is not clean, then reinforce until it is.
Here is Ones and I working on a very difficult retrieve skill. In this video, this is one of the first times I have combined hold with moving into front. I am not rewarding him enough and he tells me that. Here's part of that training session, warts and all! Look at my mistakes! But also look at the quality of his drops when I finally got a clue that what I was doing wasn't working.
If I were to ask him to heel (something we are good at and he finds relatively easy) he would drop the ball right away. I listened to him and the next couple sessions when we worked on the hold, I gave him about 3 ball throws in between each holding attempt. It worked! Here he is about a week later doing a new skill, generalizing different objects.
For the purposes of this lecture (and my current thinking!), we're talking about a 2 toy game, where you always have the other toy in your possession. One toy games complicate it further! And tugging on the toys includes some different "tells" from the dog.
Homework:
Evaluate your dog’s performance and game skills when it comes time to add in some behaviors. Does their game skills stay the same, with no hestation? Do certain behaviors deteriorate, where?
Remember to play and reinforce until the game skills are "clean" again before asking for another behavior skill. Start thinking of play reinforcement as "chunks" of play, rather than one behavior equals one throw.
Shade Whitesel (she/her) has been training and competing in dog sports since she was a kid. Always interested in how dogs learn, she has successfully competed in IPO/schutzhund, AKC obedience and French Ring. Her retired dog, Reiki vom Aegis, IPO 3, FH 1, French Ring 1, CDX, was 5th at the...
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