AG140 Building and Maintaining A Start Line

Week 1

• Where it goes wrong
• Station training
• Freeze in Position (Offered Stay)
• Clean Verbal Cues & Event Markers
• Work Away from Rewards (Remote Reinforcement)

Week 2

• Start line issues
• The Stay
• Introduction of the Release Cue
• Handling the Release Without the Dog
• Training the Release from the Station
• Handling the Release from a Station
• Focus Evaluation Procedure

Week 3

• Reset Start
• Positions
• Training and Handling Release from a Station (continued)
• Work Away from Reinforcement - Add Transitions and Work

Week 4

• Release from Position
• Setup at the start line
• Leash On and Off Procedure
• Station Training - Distractions

Week 5

• Lead-out/Release from the Setup
• Moving to the first obstacle
• Work Away from Reinforcement - Toys
• Work Away from Reinforcement - Add a Ring Entrance

Week 6

• Putting it all together
• Testing the Start line (delays, changing setup position, changing handler position etc)
• Ring Exit Strategy (this affects your ring entry)

Prerequisite: None

Equipment:

Jump (this will be set low)

Sit platform or a prop

This prop can help your dog learn how to assume the desired position (sit, down, stand) when you set him up. This will be helpful, if you want to set up your dog at your left or right side. It is not required and we can work around it. But if you want a nice precise setup, it can be helpful.

If you already have a good setup, or if you want your dog to start between your legs, you won't need anything. If you don't know what you need, we can discuss this in class.

A portable dog cot or any type of portable station.

Dog mats that lay flat on the ground won't be used to teach stationing behavior. Instead, you will need a cot or an elevated surface with a distinct boundary.

The portable/fold-up Carlson cot has worked well for my dogs. I use the large for my medium dogs. It's much larger than they need, but I love the portability. It is also very reasonably priced. If you have a powerful dog, you might want to look into something more expensive that is built to handle an abrupt exit from the station. There are cots made for kids in daycare that work well as stations. If you search for "daycare cots" in your browser, you can find examples of these.

Other favorites are the Cato Board: https://catooutdoors.com/. The Cato Board is a stable outdoor platform specifically for dog sports activities. You can use it in most weather conditions, and it is supported so that it doesn't move when your dog gets onto or leaves the board. They are pricey, but I think you'll like them. Some dogs have issues stepping off a lower station, and the Cato Board has a lower platform. The issue of stepping off or executing a 2o2o position is common in the earlier learning stages. You can stack 2 or 3 Cato Boards to get more height or work the initial learning stages on a temporary station (even one that is not portable) with more height (couch, table, etc.) until your dog understands the criteria.

The 4 Legs 4 Pets cots: https://www.4legs4pets.com/. These are also sturdy cots that are stackable. However, they are lower to the ground and might cause issues where the dog steps off, as I described in the above paragraph on the Cato Board.

The Klimb with a mat (to prevent it from being slippery) is okay as long as it is stable for your dog. There should be enough room for your dog to stand and move around comfortably.

Other options are cushions from a couch, an ottoman, an aerobic step, or any object your dog can stand on comfortably.

You can also use permanent outdoor surfaces, like a treat stump, concrete surface or platform (like septic tank lids), or a park bench.

There is no required position on the station. Just because you want a sit at the start line doesn't mean your dog must sit on the station. Also, if you have a down on the pause table, the down should not be required on the station.

Some dogs initially have trouble learning to stay on stations close to the ground, like the Cato board. The issue is that the dog can easily step off during the learning phase. If this happens, you can raise your station by stacking or propping it up temporarily until your dog learns the skill.

If you aren't sure about what to use or have any further questions, please ask.

Toy (can be a food toy)

For toy motivated dogs - a toy that can be thrown or placed as a reinforcement.

If your dog prefers food, then you will need a food toy that you can be thrown.

Examples of food toys: https://www.cleanrun.com/category/dog_toys_and_tugs/food_stuffable_agility_training_dog_toys/index.cfm

Lotus ball small: https://www.cleanrun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=3098&ParentCat=132

Lotus ball medium: https://www.cleanrun.com/product/medium_lotus_ball_dog_toy/index.cfm?ParentCat=22

Treat hugger: https://www.cleanrun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=5087&ParentCat=132

https://www.amazon.com/Clean-Run-Hugger-Treat-Dispensing-Fleece/dp/B07DF8NWSY/

Strong start

If your dog's start line performance started strong and then fell apart, how did that happen? If you have a dog that has not competed and you want to train a brilliant start line, how can you make sure that the behavior doesn't fall apart?

Reinforcing behavior

Behaviors increase and become stronger when they are reinforced - that's how reinforcement is defined. Reinforcement occurs when the dog accesses something they find value for (for example, food or toys). Reinforcement can also happen by when the dog performs a behavior that has value (from a long history of reinforcement). For example, when your dog accesses a highly valued obstacle after performing a skill (like the start line), all of the previous behaviors are reinforced by the execution of that obstacle. So, you can essentially reinforce your dog's start line when you release your dog to perform the first obstacle (if that obstacle has value for the dog).

The reverse also comes into play. You can build in a history of unwanted behaviors when you repeatedly continue or cue obstacles after your dog performs unwanted start line behaviors. If you ignore those undesirable behaviors, they will continue (and can even become stronger) in that environment. That's why so many dogs have different performances at the trials. The environment becomes a cue to the dog for a different performance. There is also an emotional component in play. If there is stress or confusion, skills will get weak or disappear altogether. It's a complicated behavior chain that needs to be unraveled to clear up confusion for individual dog and handler teams.

Because it can be tricky to reward your dog's start line performance in a trial, you must work hard at exposing your dog's trained routine to many environments and distractions. In an environment that has lots of distractions (trials), your dog's performance will get tested. However, if the training has also been tested and the handling and the release cue are clear to your dog, then those new situations won't be an issue. As long as new environments and distractions are gradually layered into your dog's experience with plenty of success, then your dog will eventually handle distractions that seemed impossible in the past.

For the love of agility

Most dogs that do agility LOVE the sport. Training the obstacles and sequences with positive reinforcement creates a strong desire to interact with them. Going to the next "thing" becomes a highly valued reward for the dog. However, if you and your dog are not communicating well (your cues are not clear), both of you will be frustrated. The lack of communication will deteriorate your dog's start line stay - maybe without you even recognizing the first signs. For example, your dog's behavior might start to change in classes or trials under certain conditions when:

1. you feel rushed,
2. you disconnect from your dog (thinking about the sequence ahead or talking to your instructor),
3. you are unaware of signals or movements that your dog associates with the release,
4. you are unaware of patterns that unintentionally predict a release

Also, there can be some issues caused by stress or frustration, which creates a negative conditioned emotional response in your dog at the start line. And when that happens, you no longer have a dog that can think clearly. Anything can happen!!

What causes behavior to deteriorate?

Here are some examples of handler behavior that can cause a good start line behavior to deteriorate:

1. Attempt to control the dog's behavior
   
   • Backing up or facing the dog while leading out
   • Repeating the stay cue while leading out
   • Physically placing the dog into position (i.e., pushing the rear down, etc.)
   • Overly demanding/punitive stay cue tone
2. Being disconnected or distracted
3. Using unpredictable patterns (examples: two steps then release, handler looks at the dog and then releases)
4. Using unintentionally pairing the verbal release cue with motion (example: reaching towards the dog with a hand at the same time the verbal cue is given, moving forward at the same time the verbal release cue is given)
5. Showing disappointment and negative emotions - even when it's not directed towards the dog.

Conclusion

Your dog learns the start line routine pattern that you create - intentionally or unintentionally. This pattern starts from the time you walk into the ring until your dog leaves the start line. As each of these behaviors progresses, each of them is rewarded by continuing with the subsequent behavior. It ends up being a robust behavior chain that builds and gains momentum. If there are any unwanted behaviors along the way, those behaviors are also built into the routine.

Unfortunately, most of these patterns usually go unnoticed until the dog is displaying lots of unwanted behaviors, including leaving the start line before the handler's intended release cue is given. To solve these issues, you have to break things down and rebuild a different set of behaviors with clear cues.